Aquascaping: from beginner to advance hobbyist

dundileo

@raufan, Ya.. Cahaya itu penting supaya tumbuhan bisa fotosintesis (bisa hidup dan tumbuh), tapi kalau intensitasnya terlalu tinggi seperti di balkonmu itu memang bisa kena algae. Saran gw sih (setelah melihat fotonya) sebaiknya dimasukin ruangan, dikasih lampu. Bikin setup yang low light aja = low cost = low maintenance, seperti punyanya MasBro @WYATB itu.

Untuk ukuran nano, lampunya bisa pakai apa aja. Kalau nggak mau beli lampu khusus untuk nano, bisa pakai lampu meja belajar yang diposisikan di atas tank, atau lampu ulir yang digantung di atas tank, 15-20watt cukup. Dinyalakan sekitar 8-10 jam sehari, misalnya kalau siang pulang kuliah, sebelum tidur dimatikan.

Tanaman dan tank dibersihkan dulu dari algae, tanamannya direndam dalam ember dulu 3-4 hari digelapin (embernya ditutup), untuk mematikan sisa2 algae yang menempel. Hati2 kalau bersihin tank, jangan sampai akriliknya tergores pasir. Media pasir/gravel dicuci seperti cuci beras pakai air tank/sumur, simpan dalam kondisi basah (karena mengandung bakteri baik, supaya tetap hidup). Kayu/batu disikat terus dijemur/dikeringkan. Filter dibersihkan juga, cucinya pakai air tank/sumur, media filter lama jangan dibuang (juga mengandung bakteri baik), diperas2 aja supaya nggak terlalu kotor.

Pada saat setup, gravel yang sekarang dipakai lagi, tapi di bagian paling bawahnya dikasih lapisan tanah (tanah kebun biasa, buangi dulu kalau ada daun, ranting, kerikilnya) sedikit aja (paling untuk nano segitu 3-4 genggam cukup untuk belajar nanam dulu, kalau kebanyakan nanti ammonianya tinggi sekali), dijemur dulu beberapa hari sampai kering. Atau kalau mau praktis pakai laterit (tanah liat bulat2 seperti kelereng yang dijual di tukang aqua) seperti Bro WYATB.

Tanaman yang sekarang bisa dipakai, tapi kalau mau nambah lagi cari jenis2 cryptocoryne, murah dan gampang banget piaranya, warnanya ada yang hijau, coklat, kemerahan, ada yang pendek, ada yang tinggi. Untuk pertama2, harus sering ganti air (50% setiap 2 hari), karena tanah sedang mengalami proses mineralisasi (ammonia->nitrit->nitrat akan tinggi), jangan sampai airnya berbau baru diganti.

Ini contohnya cryptocoryne (sebelah kiri depan, di belakang kayu dan yang di tengah & kanan depan):


Ini juga cryptocoryne:


Ini juga, yang jenis besar (balansae dan wendtii):


Nanti kalau ini sudah berhasil, bisa coba bikin DIY CO2 pakai ragi, main lampu yang agak terang, jadi bisa pelihara jenis2 tanaman yang butuh cahaya terang, dan bisa bikin macam2 gaya scape, kalau mau.

WYATB

@dundileo: suka banget sama pic pertama,kesannya rapi tapi masih natural looks. Bisa gak ya bikin kayak gitu di kantor? hehe. Oya besok kalo balik ke apt, kufoto update terbaru sama foto utilisasi CO2 yg kupasang. C u.
@raufan, ayo bro, semangaaat... hehe.. Aquariumku iya taruh dinding di antara ruangan dalam dan luar, beraihinnya dari luar, agak susah sih krn aku rada mbleset pas ngitung space-nya jd kecil banget space-nya.

WYATB

@raufan: ini tank terdahulu yg udah hancur, hehe..

dundileo

@WYATB, sebagai sesama pemilik nano (umur 1-2 bulanan juga kan ya?), harusnya loe bisa memberi banyak masukan dan support untuk @raufan. Gw juga kapan2 pengen bikin nano ah, tapi harus berhasil sama yang ini dulu.

dundileo

Tank itu setebal dinding ya? Nge-scape dan maintenancenya susah tuh, harus pakai tools yang panjang2. Kanan-kiri tanami yang tinggi seperti Vallisneria gigantea (tapi perlu med-hi light dan harus dikasih divider supaya runnernya nggak ekspansif) atau Aponogeton crispus (medium light, tahan 30C, berumbi seperti tiger lily), sementara bagian tengahnya kasih batang kayu horizontal yang agak gede, tanami microsorum (java fern, tapi butuh suhu rendah) atau echi swordnya (sekitar 28C) yang seperti sekarang itu dibanyakin supaya rimbun atau C. wendtii (30C) bisa juga, tapi yang jelas substratnya harus dipupuk supaya tanamannya subur.

Aponogeton crispus:

dundileo

@WYATB, @alco, @raufan, ini ada artikel bagus tentang bagaimana mengolah tanah untuk aquarium. Bisa untuk dipraktekkan sekarang, atau untuk dicoba di kemudian hari. Artikel aslinya ada di sini: http://www.aquaticplantcentral.com/forumapc/library/52554-how-mineralized-soil-substrate-aaron-talbot.html


How-To: Mineralized Soil Substrate
by Aaron Talbot

Over the years dedicated aquatic plant hobbyists have developed many different methods to maintain vibrant freshwater flora. After having tried almost all of the popular fertilization techniques, I have finally found one that produces consistently healthy aquatic plants. That fertilization method imparts essential nutrients by using mineralized topsoil as a substrate.

When I joined the Greater Washington Aquatic Plant Association about four years ago, I attended my first official meeting at the home of Sean Murphy. Sean is a Fisheries Biologist by trade and has been employing mineralized soil in his planted aquariums for nearly two decades now. He developed a “recipe” for the soil substrate during his collegiate studies of wetlands soils. It is his recipe that I have recently begun using with great success.

Using topsoil or potting soil as a substrate is not a new idea. Aquarists have been using this method to grow healthy aquatic plants for decades. However, this method does seem to pose some problems, namely algae outbreaks resulting from light intensity that is too strong. This is especially true when you first set up your aquarium with this type of substrate. The algae likely results from the excess nutrients that decomposing organic materials release in the soil. The decomposing organic materials are not bio-available to the aquatic plants. As the tank matures, the algae dissipate slowly as the organics in the soil finish breaking down.

Mineralizing the soil beforehand helps to speed the breakdown of organic materials in the soil. In turn the mineralized soil will help shorten the initial algae outbreak period that many aquarists experience when using a soil substrate. Soil mineralization occurs from exposing bacteria, enzymes and other soil microbes to oxygen in a moist environment. The microbes break down the organic materials in the soil into bio-available minerals. As an added bonus these new bio-available forms of nutrients are generally only available to plants and not to algae.

There are a few other components to the mineralized soil recipe. Clay provides a source of iron. The clay also serves to bind with the soil as a flocculating agent. When plants are uprooted or disturbed, the added clay will help the soil to settle back to the bottom of the tank. Adding Dolomite to the base of the substrate will provide plants with the necessary calcium and magnesium they need for healthy growth. The calcium and magnesium in the dolomite will also help to keep the soil from becoming too acidic. Lastly, add soluble potash for an initial potassium source.

It is still possible to use pressurized CO2 and high lighting with this method of fertilization. I have setup four tanks using this method and all of them have been high-tech setups using CO2 and high lighting. I rarely ever have to dose any supplements save for the occasional dose of potassium. Use caution when dosing and dose very little amounts at a time.

I’ve composed a list of materials and step-by-step instructions for those readers who would like to try the mineralized soil substrate method.

Materials Needed

• Cheap topsoil
• Pottery clay
• Dolomite
• Muriate of potash
• Fine gravel or coarse sand
• Large container for soaking soil
• Screen made from scrap wood and chicken wire
• Nylon screening material
• Large plastic tarp

Step 1 – Purchase and Rinse the Topsoil

Open the bag of topsoil and distribute in the container of your choice for soaking purposes. I use large Rubbermaid containers that are readily available from any mega-mart. You will want to use cheap topsoil and not potting soil. Potting soil has additives to avoid such as fertilizers, vermiculite and peat moss.
Fill the tub with water so the water level is a few inches above the top of the soil. I like to stir it around a bit to help break up any big clumps and evenly distribute the water. Let this soak for a day or two. Come back and slowly dump the water off of the top. Now add in more water so the soil is well covered. This water changing process helps to “rinse” the soil of any possible fertilizers or other harmful water soluble chemicals.

Step 2 – Allow the Topsoil to Dry

Pour the excess water out of the container as you did when changing the water. Lay out the large plastic tarp, preferably in direct sunlight. Dump out the muddy soil and spread it relatively thin over the tarp. Allow the soil to dry completely. This can take a day or two and depends greatly on how warm the temperature is where you are drying the soil. This part of the process could be done indoors. Though due to its messy nature, I suggest doing it outdoors if possible. When the soil is completely dry, add it back into the soaking container.
The drying process is the part that allows the microbes in the soil to begin mineralizing the nutrients. Exposing it to air oxygenates the soil.

Step 3 – Repeat the Rinsing and Drying Cycles

Repeat steps 1 and 2 three to four times. Repeating the steps is necessary to further mineralize the soil and remove any lingering fertilizers. The soil mineralizes the most during the time while it is still moist and exposed to air on the large tarp. By soaking it over again we reintroduce the needed moisture for this process to take place. When the soil is near fully mineralized it will have a very grainy texture. Another way to tell that the soil is ready is by smell. There will be virtually no smell coming from the soil once it is mineralized.


Mineralized Topsoil

Step 4 (optional) – Sift the Soil to Remove Debris

Screening the soil can help to remove any large organic materials that the short mineralization process employed thus far cannot remove. I have setup tanks where I skipped Step 4 and others where I used it. I have found that adding this step to the process helps to further eliminate algae issues after a tank is newly setup.
You can use a wooden frame with chicken wire stapled to four sides. Then place nylon screening material overtop. Place a few handfuls of soil on top and gently push the soil across the surface of the screen. Make sure to put a container underneath to catch the sifted soil. Below is a picture of the sticks, leaves and stones that can be removed during this step. The resulting sifted soil will feel like airy sand.


Screening Setup

Step 5 – Add the Clay

Now that you have a mineralized soil to use as the substrate, you will want to add in the aforementioned clay. Estimate how much clay you will need so that the resulting mixture of soil and clay is about 5% to 10% clay. If you prefer measurements I use about ¼ of a pound of clay per square foot of tank bottom.
To add the clay you soak it in a container of water to help emulsify it and make it easier to incorporate into the soil. A second option to add clay is to dry the clay in the open air and then crush it into a powder and add it to the soil. In either case you will want to eventually add enough water to the mixture to form a nice runny mud.


Mineralized Soil Mud with Clay Added

Step 6 (optional) – Create an Aesthetic Border

Now comes the fun part of setting up the aquarium. Add the gravel of your choice just along the front and side edges of the aquarium bottom. Wet it just enough that it holds a slope and press it up against the sides. Doing this step ensures that we will not see the different layers of substrate when viewing the tank from the front and sides. In this instance I have chosen to use 3M Colorquartz T-Grade Black Sand as a substrate top layer. I prefer this coarse sand for many reasons. It is very dense and holds a slope for a long period of time. The finer granules also allow for easy planting.


Sand Border

Step 7 – Add the Dolomite and Muriate of Potash

Sprinkle a light dusting of both the dolomite and muriate of potash on the bottom glass of the tank. The bottom of the glass should still be somewhat visible.


Sprinkling of Dolomite and Potash

Step 8 – Add the Mineralized Mud

Fill in the borders you’ve created with the runny mud mixture of mineralized soil and clay. This layer should be anywhere from ½” to 1” deep.


Mineralized Mud Added

Step 9 – Top With Gravel

Cover the mud with more of the same border gravel from step 6. If you skipped step 6 then simply cover over the mud with the gravel of your choice. Cover the mud by about 1” in the front to 2” in the back of the tank to create a nice sloping substrate effect.


Gravel Top Layer Added

Step 10 - Slowly Fill the Aquarium and Begin Planting

Begin planting and filling the aquarium as you would any other planted aquarium. Use caution when filling the tank with water. Go slowly to avoid disturbing the substrate and uncovering the soil.

The End Product

I hope this has inspired you to try something new. I know I had wanted to try mineralized soil for some time after seeing Sean’s beautiful aquariums. I finally got up the courage to set up a small 20 gallon tank last year and now I’m hooked. With a little patience and trial and error, I think you’ll be pleased with the results.


My ADA 90-P aquarium with a mineralized soil substrate


My AGA 75 gallon aquarium with a mineralized soil substrate

EDIT: tanah liat mungkin bisa diganti dengan tanah kebun yang warnanya merah. Kalau Diana Walstad nggak pakai dolomite, tapi pakai remukan kulit kerang sebagai sumber kalsiumnya.

ktl_kprt

bang @dundelio gue nanem rumput kobra (lilaeopsis brasiliensis) kok pada busuk semua ya bang? itu karena gw slah nanemnya (gue tanem satu2 batang gt) apa emang itu taneman susah buat yg low maintenance y? trus gue jg coba nanem kek rumput gitu (g tau namanya) ada bbrp yg busuk itu knp ya? dan ini gue mau kasih echinodorus tenellus yg katanya gampang ada tips g buat nanemnya? ato harus gue tambah apa gitu biar g pd busuk...oiya subtratnya gue pake :
- paling bawah pasir malang
- tengah PDO lokal (g ada mereknya)
- atas pasir silika

ktl_kprt

hehehe sory salah mensyen maksudku abang @dundileo, makasih sebelumnya ^^

WYATB

@dundileo: tuh ada 1 pasien baru lagi, hehe.. thx buat article nya bro, blm sempat baca ntar2 siang aja, but seems today I will be busy neh. Nano ku emang skrng ini okay, smoga terus begitu. Sebenarnya gak susah @Raufan, hanya perlu telaten aja, meski tingkat ketelatenanku jauh di bawah bung Dundi, atur cahaya, suhu dan tanaman yg sesuai. Info di sini yg bung@dundileo (many thx to u bro), rasanya udah cukup utk sebuah nano, ayo semangaat...
@pandasm88: sejak kpn tuh tank nya bro? fotoin trus upload bro, biar diagnosa dokternya gak salah, hehe... Setauku hair grass emang agak2 susah. kalo tanya ke penjualnya semua dibilang gampang.. Anjrit jg tuh.. Belom nemu lapak yg bisa kasi info jujur neh kayak langgananku dulu.

dundileo

@pandaism88, gw bukan ahli, tapi akan gw coba jawab sesuai yang gw tau ya. Setupnya sudah berapa lama? Tanaman jenis lainnya yang ditanam bersamaan dengan karpet busuk juga nggak? Busuknya melting beberapa hari setelah ditanam atau tumbuh sedikit2 tapi pertumbuhannya mengecil dan akhirnya mati? Low maintenance itu yang loe maksud low light & low tech non CO2? Suhu tank berapa?

Tanaman melting di awal penanaman itu wajar karena ada perubahan parameter dari lingkungan sebelumnya. Apalagi tanaman yang asalnya ditanam secara darat (emersed), masuk air akan kekurangan CO2. Kalau setupnya baru, bisa melting karena tank masih dalam masa cycling, ammonium dan nitrit tinggi. Lilaeopsis, HG dan Echi tennelus seharusnya bisa tumbuh di cahaya med sedikit low dan tanpa CO2, tapi hasilnya nggak akan serapat kalau pakai hi light dan CO2. Tanaman loe melting bisa jadi karena tanaman darat, tank belum stabil, kurang cahaya, kurang nutrisi atau kepanasan (bisa ditelusuri dengan melihat kondisi tank). Kalau mau karpet2an, coba pakai DSM (dry start method) gw rasa hasilnya akan lebih baik. Setelah rapat, digenangi langsung didosing dengan CO2.

Pasir malang kurang bagus karena ringan, butirannya besar2 dan kasar, susah nancep dan gampang tercabut kalau dipakai top. Pupuk dasar kalau sudah banyak orang yang rekomen harusnya sih bagus2 aja, cuma jumlahnya harus memadai supaya tanaman cukup dapat nutrisi. Kalau gw sepertinya mulai konfiden dengan tanah kebun dicampur tanah liat dan pasir, terus ditutup gravel. Tanahnya direbus/dijemur, terus direndam dulu di ember beberapa hari sebelum dipakai. Gw baru bikin setup semingguan, (memang masih terlalu awal untuk dinilai, tapi) so far (keliatannya, moga2, bakalan) so good untuk low tech-low light tank.

Bener tuh kata yang punya warung, kalau bisa difoto dan bikin jurnal kecil2an di sini, supaya yang lain bisa belajar juga. Kasih tau perkembangannya ya.. :-bd

@WYATB, HG gampang, asal kebutuhannya tercukupi. Cahaya hi, CO2 konstan dan melimpah, substrat subur, plus macro & micro nutrients. Loe jawab dong, loe kan yang punya lapak. Coba baca2 dan praktekin, jadi loe bisa bantu orang juga. :P

dundileo

BTW @WYATB, hari ketujuh (umur = 6 hari), melting di tank gw (moga2) sudah berenti. Sudah mulai keliatan pertumbuhan para crypt (moga2 seterusnya, nggak mandek), daun2nya juga keliatan segar, warnanya keluar hijau, coklat, coklat agak merah. Air juga sudah keliatan pristine (walaupun masih banyak debris kalau diobok2), scum dan buih sudah hilang, bau sudah hilang. Kalau tangan dicemplungin nggak terasa gatal. Kemarin gw stop ganti air, gw coba liat nanti malam masih bagus nggak airnya. Sementara ini gw doping pakai DIY CO2 dan JBL Ferropol (kegatelan & nggak betah soalnya kalau pakai walstad murni, jadi sementara ini semi walstad).

Foto (sepertinya bakal) menyusul.

ktl_kprt

ohh...gitu. itu meltingnya setetlah sekiter sebulan gue setup tanemannya kerdil trus busuk gitu, kebetulan pas setup awal itu gw g tanem yg laen, cm moss gue iket di kayu nah setelah sukses melting gw ksh taneman br yg kek rumput nah itu tumbuh tp lambat bgt dan bbrapa daun melting mungkin itu daun daratny. yaudah nanti deh gue uplod fotonya klo ada koneksi memadai. apa gue rescape total aja ya gregetan gue . btw makasih y bang @dundileo

dundileo

@pandaism88, kalau kata Tom Barr, cahaya menentukan segalanya. Tentukan tujuan dulu, mau low apa hi? Low light = (bisa) low tech = low cost = low maintenance. Tapi kalau low light konsekuensinya ya jangan bikin karpet.. Itu sepertinya mati pelan2 karena kurang cahaya, jadi nggak bisa fotosintesis (= nggak bisa makan, nggak bisa tumbuh). Mending go low-med light aja. Jangan lupa substrat *harus* subur, karena itu salah satu kunci pertumbuhan juga. Terus (kalau mau) pertumbuhan dipump pakai CO2 ragi, selang ditaruh bawah kapas powerhead hasilnya gelembung CO2 bisa sehalus debu. Coba deh, akan lebih memuaskan daripada karpet2an yang harus diurusin terus, kuatir defisiensi, kuatir algae. Fotonya ditunggu.

dundileo

@alco, makanya dicoba dong, skala kecil aja dulu pakai toples juga bisa..

dundileo

@alco,