Aquascaping: from beginner to advance hobbyist

WYATB

@createsometrouble: bro, kalo terlalu mempedulikan para haters, kita yg capek sendiri. Bukan salah kita kalo mereka gak punya mimpi. Dan jg bukan salah mereka sepenuhnya bila mereka hanya bisa melihat kita jungkir balik demi mewujudkan mimpi kita. Aku jg gak begitu suka tinggal di dalam bangunan rumah yg besar, ruangan yg cukup aja utk menampung semua aktifitas tapi hommy. Selebihnya ialah halaman luas utk bermain dgn anjing2ku, hehe.

dundileo

@createsometrouble, eh iya Oom, lupa bilang untuk masuk grup itu harus register dulu. Di dalamnya ada ratusan program NG, DC, dll yang bagus2 dan bisa didownload pakai torrent (aplikasi BitTorrent).

1) Download dan install BitTorrent: http://www.bittorrent.com/
2) Daftar MVGroup: http://forums.mvgroup.org/
3) Klik link movienya: http://forums.mvgroup.org/index.php?showtopic=45136
4) Klik icon BitTorrent di sebelah judul film yang akan didownload (yang warna hijau), setelah file kecil itu terdownload (only a few secs), double-click, maka film yang sesungguhnya akan didownload oleh BitTorrent.

dundileo

@WYATB, crinum itu tanaman berdaun cambuk yang loe liat di mol. Di ACE ada water terst kit, tapi bukan seperti yang gw punya yang kadaluarsa itu.

Air yang berbuih kan sudah pernah gw jelasin waktu kita chat di YM. Jadi kalau ammonia tinggi, airnya berubah jadi kental dan kalau ada gelembung udara akan terperangkap di bawah permukaan air, nggak langsung pecah. Gw kan top-up nya (nambahin air untuk mengganti penguapan) pakai botol, jadi waktu dituang ada gelembung yang ikut masuk tank dong. Nah gelembung itulah yang tertahan di permukaan jadi semacam buih. Hal yang sama bisa terjadi kalau ada gelembung CO2/udara dari aerator.

dundileo

@WYATB, waktunya ganti air lagi. Walaupun nggak sampai 10 menit tarik selang sedot-isi, tapi malesssnya minta ampun..

WYATB

@dundileo: wkakakak.. Ayo jgn malas dong.. Btw bisa kamu bayangin waktu dulu aku ngerawat aquarium tanam bro, udah deh ntar kalo bangun rumah lagi gak bakal aneh2 kayak gitu, hehe.. Ee about my tiger lotus, aku ikutin saranmu memotong 2 batang yg tinggi krn daunnya jg waktu itu agak melt. Nah ini runnernya kok jd kerdil2 banget ya bro, bahkan lebih pendek dari yg di depan itu..
Mmm masi kepikiran ama red lotus yg di mol itu, cmn kok sek mahal-e..
Dan kayaknya di kantor baru jg gak memungkinkan utk taruh tank, hiks..

dundileo

@WYATB, ini ada bacaan menarik, kenapa tiap hari lighting diatur untuk nyala low dulu baru high, bukan langsung high. WAJIB loe baca:

Tank & equipment:


Lighting scheme:

Seperti terlihat, dia pakai low dulu, baru high, terus low lagi, dan ada 'evening light'-nya segala.

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Ini yang nanya George Farmer jadul sebelum sengetop sekarang:

Quote:
Originally Posted by George
Beautiful in all aspects.

What I find particularly interesting is your lighting schedule. I currently run an "algae gap" of 2 hours with 5 hours either side i.e. 5 on, 2 off, 5 on but am sceptical as to its usefulness in keeping algae away (I have no nuisance algae anyway).

Is there any science behind your lighting schedule method, except I suppose that it mimicks nature more closely than just lights on/off?

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Ini jawabannya yang punya tank:

Hello George,

First, I don't want to start a war here. There is much discussion how light should be used etc.
There are a few basis points :
- 9 hours of light is enough to grow plants
- 12 hours is ok, but not necessary
- 6 hours is too short and some species will not flourish
- plants need ferts, depending of the light and CO2. More light means more need of ferts ( and CO2). More CO2 means more need of ferts.
- CO2 will help the plant to use the available light more efficient ( 30%)...
So, CO2 is more important than more light...

first step : get your CO2 right

Around 30 mg CO2/l is optimum for plants. Some algea can't stand CO2 concentrations above 40 mg ( due to blocking some enzyme systems). Plants have problems to absorb CO2 out the water and a little "over pressure" like the 30 mg CO2/l will help them a lott.

Before I even think of tweaking the lights, I will check over and over to get the CO2 levels right!

Use of light and ferts

We now have constant CO2 concentrations ( more or less ) in the range near 30 mg CO2/l.
The plants are provided well and there isn't any shortage of CO2.
By turning on the lights, they will grow...

With low light : grow slow
With high light : grow fast

( You knew that, didn't you ?

Low light means slow absoption ( and need) of nutrients ( micro/macro). CO2 is also an nutrient, but we leave it out because we gave it a fixed value 30 mg/l.
The plant has time to get the nutrients out of the water and get it delivered from the roots > stemm > leaf.

High light means fast absorption needed ! It's like high alert. The cyclus has to be completed. If one nutrient fails, the cyclus will stop and growth will stop or slow down also or we see defeciency symptoms... We all did see that sometimes. The plant will work and grow like crazy. It's become an athlete

With the high light we're gonna face a few problems more : the internal buffer of the growing leaf will be empty in a few hours. The transport time of the nutrients coming from the roots, stemms or other parts of the plants is not fast enough to help the leaf. So the only way is to get nutrients directly out the water column ! NO3, PO4, micro's etc.

Help !

So with plenty of light available we ( I mean the tank owner) become very nervous to feed the plants correctly. Otherwise the plant will stop growing and algea will show...
We dump in KNO3, PO4, micro's, extra Iron and so on and on to keep the athlete in topshape...

Yeah, nice said PJAN, but I need high lights, to keep the plants down

Fair enough, plants grow better with high light. Some species realy flourish under high light, making beautiful red colors etc.

Both worlds matched together

Hmmmmm...

We would like to have slow absorption and beautifull colors and healthy growth.
We would like to avoid shortage of nutrients at any point during the day...

So I combine the two worlds together ( low light - high light )



In this example only 5 hours are "high" light. The other 5 hours are "low" light.

Low light : 110 W / 90 gallons = 1.2 W/G ( Shocking... )

High light : 260 W / 90 gallons = 2.9 W/G

I use very effective reflectors and cooling techniques, so the T5 lamps give more light than a normal used T5 lamp. If I correct these numbers, I would say :

Low light : 2 W/G

High light : 4 W/G ( with maximum 5 W/G)

In low light hours not much is happening, plants are growing slow. During the high light hours : massive pearling.

The trick is to tweak the number of hours of high light. 3 or 5 hours for example. With 3 hours the plants will be happy but growth is not at maximum/day. With 5 hours the plants are growing much faster.
So in short the peak will be improtant :
1) growth rate ( = pruning rate )
2) keep plants down ( not reaching towards the light)
3) high uptake of nutrients only during a short period.

The last point ( 3) is why I can keep the nutrients so low. PO4 at 0.1 mg/l.
Because the buffer is full ( due to the low light period) and the plant is not exhausted.
Also I don't have to worry too much about shortage of nutrients. If it is running very low ( e.g. 0,0) , the plants are not reacting fast or show defiencies.

Algea are not happy with this system. They have to compete with the plants.
I would ssy in my case PO4 is the limiting nutrient for the algea. As we know, most algea species can not buffer macro's ( NO3. PO4) very well. Plants do buffer much better and taking advantage of this during the high light hours.

Also a shortage isn't translated in a huge algea problem. The system runs easy and there is not 12 hours of high light available.

Ok, now you know...

Gr.PJAN

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Tulisan aslinya di forum:
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/showthread.php?t=18721&page=1

dundileo

@WYATB, harusnya kalau tanknya permanen di tembok, dibikinin instalasi pipa untuk buang-isi yang permanen juga dalam tembok, tinggal putar keran atau tekan tombol atau all done by timer (powerhead untuk buang) dan sistem sensor pelampung (untuk isi). Kalau tank yang hitech, CO2 dan pupuk juga bisa diatur nyala-mati berdasarkan sensor pH dan timer (tapi alatnya mahal).

WYATB

@dundileo: thx for the article u shared. Bsk deh aku baca, spt biasa laptop lagi dipake bf. Mengenai tank ku yg di rmh. Emh sbnrnya itu semi permanen bro, jadi tuh aquarium bisa diangkut keluar, tapi jadinya dindingnya malah bolong, hehe..

dundileo

It's good to know the scientific reason behind it all. Walaupun sekarang belum kita praktekkan, tapi setidaknya kita tau kenapa sebaiknya begitu.

dundileo

WYATB wrote: »

@dundileo: wkakakak.. Ayo jgn malas dong.. Btw bisa kamu bayangin waktu dulu aku ngerawat aquarium tanam bro, udah deh ntar kalo bangun rumah lagi gak bakal aneh2 kayak gitu, hehe.. Ee about my tiger lotus, aku ikutin saranmu memotong 2 batang yg tinggi krn daunnya jg waktu itu agak melt. Nah ini runnernya kok jd kerdil2 banget ya bro, bahkan lebih pendek dari yg di depan itu..
Mmm masi kepikiran ama red lotus yg di mol itu, cmn kok sek mahal-e..
Dan kayaknya di kantor baru jg gak memungkinkan utk taruh tank, hiks..

Soal pemangkasan daun, memang bisa bikin daun2 baru waterlily tetap tumbuh submersed. Itu sudah dilakukan aquaris sedunia dari jaman dulu dan gw coba sendiri waktu gw punya planted tank sebelum yang ini. Nggak bikin jadi mati.

Kalau pertumbuhan mengecil, gw curiganya karena substrat loe inert, tidak mengandung nutrisi, jadi dia tumbuh dengan menggunakan cadangan dalam umbi, tapi nggak bisa mengisi umbi dengan cadangan makanan yang baru. Coba cek umbinya apa besar sehat, atau mengkerut/kosong. If so, waktunya mempertimbangkan untuk menggunakan soil yang subur.
#Ngemeng2 gw juga h2c nih sama aponogeton gw. Pertumbuhannya sekarang pesat, tapi umbinya tumbuh juga nggak ya? Soil gw kan baru, masih dalam proses mineralisasi, dan parameter gw masih naik-turun semuanya termasuk pencahayaan. Apa dia bisa berfotosintesis sempurna, tumbuh sempurna, atau sekedar pertumbuhan semu?

Kalau mau beli waterlily lagi, selalu cek umbinya, harus besar dan padat.

Emang loe mau pindah kantor?

shidow

@dundileo tank gw 75x35x50 cm kira2 sgtu.. Gw baca2 dulu yak soalnya rada2 gak mudeng jg sm istilah2 yg dpake teman2 hwkwkwk .. *sjenak jd silent reader

dundileo

@shidow, kalau ada hal yang bisa dishare di sini monggo. Ada banyak sumber dari net. Kalau gw lebih suka masuk ke forum2 http://ukaps.org/, http://www.barrreport.com/, lainnya ada http://www.plantedtank.net/, http://www.practicalfishkeeping.co.uk/, dll. Kalau forum2 lokal kurang padat infonya, kurang greng solusinya.

shidow

Thx link'a bro ...menuju tkp :ngacir

dundileo

Alat gw untuk kuras/isi tank:



Kalau kuras: ujung A masuk tank, ujung B ditaruh kamar mandi, keran ujung B dibuka, nyalakan power.
Kalau isi: ujung A masuk tandon (air pam gw simpan di tandon/tong plastik sebelum dipakai untuk menghilangkan kaporit), ujung B dicantolin ke kaca tank, keran ujung B dibuka, nyalakan power. Kalau tank penuh keran tinggal ditutup, matikan power.

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DISCLAIMER: hati2 kalau mainan air + listrik. Sambungan elektrik jangan sampai kena air. Power plugs/semua sambungan elektrik tank (lampu, powerhead, dll) sebaiknya dipasang lebih tinggi dari tank. Kalau mau nyemplungin tangan ke dalam tank semua power dimatikan dulu. Play safe.

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"U" shape pipe dibuat pakai clear pipe biasa, dilengkungkan dengan cara diisi pasir sampai padat, ujung2nya ditutup rapat, terus tengahnya dipanaskan pakai kompor supaya lunak dan bisa dilengkungkan. Waktu memanaskan pipanya diputar2 dan digoyang2 supaya panasnya rata. ATAU kalau mau keren pakai alat yang namanya pipe spring bender dan dipanaskan pakai gas torch. Hasilnya sih kurang lebih sama aja.


Kalau pipanya dipanaskan akan bisa dilengkungkan dengan mudah, nggak usah ditekuk pakai lutut. Diisi pasir/per itu gunanya supaya penampang pipa tetap circle sewaktu dipanaskan/ditekuk, nggak berubah jadi gepeng. Kalau mau bikin beberapa pipa lengkung, supaya diameter lengkungannya seragam, bisa dibantu pakai botol/kaleng aerosol atau benda lain sebagai tumpuan lengkungnya. Bikin lilypipe inlet juga bisa dilakukan dengan cara pemanasan seperti ini.

Lilypipe:


Sumber: http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/showthread.php?t=99443

dundileo

Bro @shidow, di masing2 situs coba masuk ke forum2nya ya. Ada yang bahas soal lighting, substrat, CO2, tanaman, ikan, alat2 DIY, juga banyak jurnal2 berikut foto2nya. Lumayan banget untuk nambah ilmu.